Soomaa viies aastaaeg

Järgnev lugu ilmub ajakirja KanuuKajak aprillikuu numbris. Kirjutas Aivar Ruukel.

tass kohvi Karuskosel

tass kohvi Karuskosel

Kevadine soe toob ikka kaasa nii taimede tärkamise, rändlindude naasmise kui ka sulaveed. Veel on nimelt ilus omadus külmakraadide juures vedelast olekust tahkeks muutuda ja siis soojakraadide vallates vastupidi, üles sulada. Jõematka huvilistele on jäämineku järgsed varakevadised nädalad magus aeg, mida oodatud pikisilmi. Veetase on kõrge ja kannab jõudsalt edasi. Eriti meeldejäävaid elamusi pakuvad aga jõgede üleujutusalad.

Eestis on kolm suuremat regulaarselt üleujutatavat piirkonda : Kasari kesk- ja alamjooks, Emajõe luhad (Alam-Pedjas ja Suursoos) ning Soomaa. Just Soomaa uputus on kujunenud kõige tuntumaks ja ka uudistajate poolt enim külastatavaks. Määravaks pole siinjuures mitte uputuse ulatus, vaid see, et Soomaa on nimetatud piirkondadest tihedaima inimasustusega. Soomaalaste elu-olu on tulvavetega sajandeid kokku kõlanud ja seda tõendab ka kõnekäänd viiest kohalikust aastaajast – kevad, suvi, sügis, talv ja suurvesi, kusjuures viimane võib tava-aastaaegadega suvaliselt kattuda ja ühte kuuluda.

Jõgedega on soomaalaste elu olnud alati seotud tihedamalt kui soodega. Jõgi on olnud kuni viimase ajani peamiseks ühendusteeks muu maailmaga. Veel mõnikümmend aastat tagasi ehitati jõeäärsete majade näopool vaatama jõele, mis oli peamine liiklussoon. Esimesed inimesed toimetasid jõgede kaldail juba kiviajal, need muistsed kütid ja kalastajad on jätnud endast hulga jälgi ja tarbeesemeid. Samuti on märke ja leide nii pronksi- kui rauaajast, ühtegi suuremat asulat siiski muinasajal Soomaale ei kujununud. Ilmselt on üheks põhjuseks siinsele jõgedevõrgule omased regulaased ja ulatuslikud üleujutused.

Eemalt vaatajale võib tunduda, et oi-oi kui jube elu Soomaa külainimestel on, pidev mure ja uputushirm. Kohalikud seda ei kinnita, küla ajaloos on hoopis kirjas ”Suurvett ei kardetud, aga ikkagi oli ta nagu rikka sugulase küllatulek” . Ja edasi: “Tasase kohinaga hakkas vesi rabadest valguma, lumeräbu ees veeretades. Kui pühapäeval vesi jõekaldal pole tulnud üle saani jalaste, siis esmaspäeva õhtul ulatunud lauda ukse ees juba reepõhjani. Kui hommikul sängist tõustes jalad vette sulpsatasid, öeldudki: “näe, külaline toas!”

Noored inimesed ootasid eriti kevadise suurvee saabumist nagu pühi. Suuri töid siis teha ei saanud. Talitused taganesid lauta ja tuppa. Käidi kalal ja jahil, sõideti lootsikutega ja parvedega lusti. Õhtuti kogunesid kõik Tõramaa küla noored mõnda varjulisse abajasse kokku, kus lauldi ja mängiti pilli. Vaiksel õhtul kostus mitme küla – Tõramaa, Riisa, Kõduküla – laul üle lageda veevälja. “Bachmanni Jaanil olli grammofon – mängitati seda”, meenutab küla ajaloos Üleoja Mihkel.

2010 aasta aprillikuine suurvesi oli suurim, mida enamus inimesi näinud, Soomaad läbiv peamaantee oli veega kaetud ca 5 km ulatudes, Riisa bussipeatusest rahvuspargi külastuskeskuseni. Veetaseme maksimumiks mõõdeti Riisa veemõõdupunktis 4 meetrit ja 94 cm (vahe suvise teoreetilise miinimum tasemega), ujutusala suurus ulatus 142 ruutkilomeetrini (TÜ doktorandi Kaupo Voormansiku andmed). Siiski oli tegu vaid suuruselt neljanda üleujutusega viimase 100 aasta jooksul, rekordit hoiab 1931 aasta kui mõõdeti kõrguseks 5.53. Viie meetri piir ületati ka 1951 ja 1956 aastal.

100 aasta suurimat üleujutust 1931 aasta kirjeldas üks kohalviibjatest nii: ”Kohati oli mõni maja isegi katuseääreni vees. Nii mõneski talutoas võis näha harukordset vaatepilti: vesi ulatus aknani, kaetud söögilaud oli kuni lauatahvlini vees. Laua äärde olid ehitatud tellingud, millele asetatud toolid. Söömine oli aga kaunis riskantne, sest toolid vabisesid vähimagi liigutuse juures ja ähvardasid sööja külma vette pillata. Ahju ja usteni viivatel purretel jooksid lapsed ja mängisid „pardijahti“. Isa istus ahju peal, tõmbas piipu ja vaatas laste mängu. “

Mis tingimustel Soomaal ujutab?

Soomaa üleujutuste retsept koosneb nii loomulikest looduslikest eeldustest kui ka ilmastiku eripärast.

  • Võimsaimad ujutused on alati olnud väga kiire lume sulamise tagajärg, siis kui soe saabub äkki, ka öösel valitsevad soojakraadid ja veelgi parem kui sajab vihma. Samuti tekitavad tugevad vihmad väiksemat sorti viiendat aastaaega aegajalt ka suvel ja sügisel.
  • Talvel maha sadanud paks lumevaip on teine suure vee eeldus. Siiski on sagedamini ette tulnud, et lumerohkele talvele ei järgne rekordihõngulist uputust, kevad tuleb vindudes, päeval päike sulatab lund, öösel aga pakane taas külmetab. Enamus kevadeid hiilib sedasi ettevaatlikult kohale.

Seega uputuse teke ei sõltu niivõrd lumekoguse suurusest, kuivõrd selle sulamise kiirusest. Aga miks ikkagi just Soomaal regulaarselt ujutab?

Maastikuliselt ja hüdroloogiliselt langeb Soomaal kokku mitu üleujutusti tingivat asjaolu:

  • Lähestikku suubuvad üksteisesse kolm suhteliselt veerohket jõge – Lemmjõgi, Raudna ja Halliste. Korjates enda sängidesse lumesulamise vee suurelt alalt ei mahu see aga kokku kogutuna ühte sängi enam ära, tõuseb kallaste vahelt välja ja valgub lammidele laiali.
  • Lisategurina võimendab vee kuhjumist suhteliselt kiire vool jõgede ülemjooksudel, mis asuvad Sakala kõrgustikul. Jõudes madalikule Soomaal jõgede lang muutub olematuks ja voolukiirus aeglaseks.
  • Jõgede kaldad on ujutusalal vaid paarimeetri kõrgused, maa on madalam kui allavoolu jääval Halliste suudemalal Navestisse, kus üleujutust ei toimu.
  • Piltlikult on tegu hiiglasliku “kausiga”, mille servadeks on kõrgemad rabad, põhjaks lammimetsad ja niidud.

Kaussi voolab sisse hulga vett kolmest torust, mida ühe toru kaudu ei suudeta piisavalt kiiresti edasi juhtida. Nii valgub vesi luhtadele ja metsadesse ning ujutab üle teedki, katkestades ühenduse välisilmaga.

Et viienda aastaaja anatoomia on kaunis keerukas ja mitmete asjaolude koondmõju siis püsib visalt ka mitmeid ekslikke arusaamu ujutuste põhjuste kohta. Kõige mütoloogilisem neist on Halliste jõe “peaaegu vastuvoolu” suubumine Navestisse, mille juures Navesti “võimas” vool Halliste jõe seisma paneb ja Soomaa üle ujutab.

Veematkad viiendal aastaajal pakuvad omapäraseid alternatiive tavalisele jõesängis allavoolu kulgemisele. Üleujutuse elamuse saamiseks on retk veesõidukil arusaadavalt parem viis kui vee serva peal kummikud jalas natuke sulistada. Siinkohal mõned soovitused, et suurevee nautimine mõnusaks kujuneks:

  • Hea mõte on kasutada matkakorraldajate ja giidide teenuseid, kel ujutusalal matkamisest on varasemad kogemused
  • Enne Soomaale sõitu tutvu nii tee- kui veeoludega ja registreeri oma külastus Soomaa rahvuspargi veebis  http://suurvesi.soomaa.ee
  • Tule nädala sees, nii väldid puhkepäevaseid rahvamasse ja koged looduse vaikust ning rahu

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